“Why do we have to get up at this time?” cried my children! Cruel parent that I am, there was a very particular reason for dragging them out of bed on their second day of holiday in Ireland. When I was about their age, I had been to a very special place in Irish history, and mythology. It being just the three of us for a week in the land of my upbringing and soul, it was the perfect opportunity for them to visit, too. Now this was simple, I had thought — I kept checking the website every few days (only bookable four weeks in advance) and there was a load of spaces. However, about a month before we were hoping to go, it was announced that they would be reducing the number of people allowed in public monuments. By the time I looked, there was literally one slot with space for three people. 9 am on Monday morning!
Now it wasn’t really too early as our holiday home was on the right side of the city and it was about half an hour — in theory. Though I input ‘Brú na Bóinne’ rather than the visitor centre and ended up down a small lane, much to the amusement of a local farmer! Now we would be late. I overhead the tourists in front of us in the queue, needlessly stressed by their driver, worrying they would miss it if they weren’t there in time. I had forgotten that this was Ireland and, in fact, there was plenty of time. In fact, the OPW (Office of Public Works) had craftily built in a look around the interesting experience in the centre before getting on the bus. “No worries,” beamed the ticket lady, “you can do it after the trip.” So worrying for nothing as we even had time for a drink and a bun before walking five minutes to where the buses go from.
Our rather nervous (for an Irish official) driver explained softly that he would bring us to the first monument, then another bus would bring us to the main attraction. After a brief ride, we arrived at Knowth, clambered up a few steps to be greeted by another guide who did a condensed history of the place; 5000 years in ten minutes! Extraordinary to think that the grand site here was all reconstructed recently, as there were nothing but a few low humps left when archaeologists first started excavating. There had even been a house built on the main tomb, though it had fallen down too. The ancient peoples had brought the rocks that make up the site from a long way and, considering these are older than the pyramids, this was a remarkable achievement. They probably floated these enormous rocks by boat and must have hauled them up the hill from the nearby river.
For me, the most interesting part of this site was how the sandy sides were a natural — and safe — place for the sand martins to build. Indeed, it is a long time since I have seen so many passerines in one place!
Then a look around the display in an old barn and then off to the chief attraction — Newgrange! What a magnificent site perched on the hill gleaming in white, even on this overcast day.
One could imagine the awe it must have struck in simpler times. We headed up and, after a brief chat, put our belongings in a safe box and headed in.
It was great to see my boys wonder at such a design still standing after all this time. Screens that too often entice their imagination can’t dull such experiences. They turned the lights out and shone an artificial light where the sunlight penetrates once a year to a chosen few. A good imagination is beneficial here, as well as a poetic interpreter.
My children shook their heads to see graffiti on the inside from two centuries ago, remarking that human nature never changes. The trite scribblings were insignificant, however, to the wondrous engravings on the stones outside both monuments. Beautiful, yet simple, Celtic designs which must have been so laborious for our ancient ancestors.
A wee stroll around the outside and we were back on the bus to explore the interpretive centre that we had missed at the beginning. A grand day out and one that I hope will live long in my children’s memories.
(All Photos Copyright of Nick Tarleton, lifewingcreativ)
More details at
https://www.newgrange.com/
A Deeper Dive with Anthony Murphy at
https://mythicalireland.com/
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